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I have a window AC unit, 115 VAC, 10 amps. Power went out earlier in the week due to the big storm on the east coast and once it came back on every LED on the control panel was lit (not typical) and would run for a few seconds once I turned it on before shutting off and wouldn't turn back on. My house is older and the only grounding provided by the outlet is contact with the mounting screw on the face plate. It has a GFI power cord that will reset and stay on test fine so there's nothing wrong with the outlet itself or the breaker, other devices plugged into the same socket work. The unit is only 2 months old and was working fine beforehand so I'm thinking any surge when the power came back on either blew a fuse or capacitor. I was able to remove the cover as much as GE wants the end user to be able to, but it only provided access to the PCB for the control panel and everything there seemed to be in working order. It seems that whatever potentially failed dangerous components on the compressor driver PCB are tucked further back in the unit that would require serious tear down.

It's a week until a repairman can come to inspect it for a $100 service call and whatever mark-up is on the replacement part. I was wondering if there's a likely culprit that failed that would only be a few bucks off of Digikey.

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  • $\begingroup$ I had a new GE refrigerator go out with power interruption ; It was the start capacitor. It worked fine after I replaced the capacitor. $\endgroup$ – blacksmith37 Aug 7 '20 at 15:38
  • $\begingroup$ Did you do anything to prevent it from happening again? Or is this just something that will happen to GE appliances? $\endgroup$ – jko Aug 7 '20 at 15:49
  • $\begingroup$ Nine times out of ten, it is the PCB. Remove and replace with a simple toggle switch. On or Off - bang bang control. Will work for another fifteen years like that. I had a whole bunch of these in Florida that I used to dehumidify projects while working on them - boats mostly. $\endgroup$ – Phil Sweet Aug 7 '20 at 20:31
  • $\begingroup$ Most appliances have some electronic protection .My GE fridge was 1980. My 2011 Samsung has seen about 20 + power out/on events and never had a problem. $\endgroup$ – blacksmith37 Aug 8 '20 at 15:34
  • $\begingroup$ @PhilSweet if I could convince my wife it was still "safe" I would definitely go that route. Also not sure how well I could do that and maintain the proper aesthetic to be used in our bedroom, not that the current unit isn't already an eyesore. $\endgroup$ – jko Aug 10 '20 at 12:00

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