Timeline for Most efficient heat exchanger for dirty air/water medium?
Current License: CC BY-SA 3.0
8 events
| when toggle format | what | by | license | comment | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jan 28, 2015 at 15:47 | vote | accept | JedF | ||
| Jan 28, 2015 at 7:59 | answer | added | mart | timeline score: 2 | |
| Jan 28, 2015 at 2:52 | comment | added | JedF | Designed properly you could "idle" your firewood and have it self relight. Obviously you have to design your system to be properly sized so that you don't waste time between operating states. If you built in weather forecast and properly modeled the heat losses in your house you could even have it predictively react to coming temperatures. | |
| Jan 28, 2015 at 0:42 | answer | added | George Herold | timeline score: 3 | |
| Jan 28, 2015 at 0:32 | comment | added | jhabbott | Wouldn't a better heat exchanger simply cool the fire faster, meaning the fan would come on more, meaning it would burn through fuel faster? If my thinking is correct this means you would get more power from it, but it wouldn't necessarily be more efficient in terms of output vs. fuel usage. (though power output vs. physical size would improve). | |
| Jan 27, 2015 at 22:07 | comment | added | JedF | If it is building up it means it isn't getting burned the first time. Properly designed there should be no creosote build up because it's burning and contributing to energy into the water. Newer EPA stoves separate the pyrolysis from the actual burn but I think they're using a pretty bad heat exchanger. Your opinion likely comes from a number of shortcomings in engineering design. One of which is a terrible heat exchanger. | |
| Jan 27, 2015 at 19:25 | comment | added | George Herold | I have an outdoor stove*. I'm not sure how much better you can do than fire box/ water / insulation. One thing to remember is that the inside gets coated with creosote. *My opinion of outdoor wood stoves upon request. | |
| Jan 27, 2015 at 15:52 | history | asked | JedF | CC BY-SA 3.0 |